All the info you need is here…
...Because they don’t make em!
Shocking huh? But making bearings is so specialized that machine manufacturers outsource their bearings from one of the handful of bearing manufacturers worldwide.
This means the bearings in your machine are most likely a standard size and finding replacements is a cinch. Plus you’ll only pay for the actual bearing, no ‘middle man’ mark up whatsoever, result!
Here’s how to find out what bearings you need without going to the machines manufacturer
Sharp eyes or use a magnifying glass
It’s really simple, all you need is a magnifying glass to read the tiny identifying numbers that all bearings carry.
On this bearing for example, they are stamped into the outer ring, but sometimes the numbers are etched around the outer edge of the bearing (see next image) or even on the plastic/ metal covers.
Make a note of ALL the numbers and letters you see because each number means something important. Many bearings have a number followed by some extra letters or numbers. These extra numbers indicate the special operating capabilities the bearing has.
Important to get this part right!
For example, the above bearing has “C3” after the bearing number. C3 means the bearing is manufactured with a special expansion tolerance to cope with rapid start-ups (a feature of the big mitre saw it came from). This is important because the sudden heat build up would cause the plain 6202-2z bearing to overheat and seize. Seriously, just because it fits doesn’t mean it’s the right bearing for the job.
Whilst you have your ruler out, measure the thickness or width of the bearing, the internal diameter or bore of the hole in the middle and the outer or external diameter of the bearing, because some websites ask for these numbers to double-check you have the right bearing.
What you need to know to identify your bearings…
Some other things to look out for.
Bearings come in many different specifications, here’s some you might find….
- Closed races (where the bearings are covered with plastic/rubber/metal covers).
- Open bearings (where you can see the actual ball bearings).
- Needle roller bearings.
- Tapered bearings.
- Fast start bearings (as we talked about above).
- High load bearings for heavy stuff.
- Thrust bearings that can cope with lateral movement.
- Bearings for use in extreme heat conditions.
- Bearings for use in low temperatures
- Bearings for use in dusty environments.
- Bearings for use under extreme vibration.
- Etc., etc.!
Any special requirements like the above are usually covered in the full bearing number.
I recommend keeping to the same bearing brand your machine manufacturer used to avoid potential fitting problems. Although bearing manufacturers argue that the tolerances on bearings are so good these days, the actual manufacturer shouldn’t be an issue; as long as the numbers match you’re good to go.
Where to buy bearings for a fraction the manufacturers price
I use simply bearings in the UK, who ship worldwide. They stock bearings from all the major manufacturers. I have no affiliation with them, but they have reliably and quickly shipped very competitively priced bearings to me wherever I’ve been in the world.
Or simply use the numbers from your bearing as the search terms in your favorite flavour of internet search engine, yup, just Google them and your bearing should pop right up at a bearing supplier near you 🙂
I hope you found this post useful, and as always feel free to leave a comment or share this with anyone you think it might help.
Stay well
Ian
